What Is Santoon Fabric? Everything You Need to Know in 2026
Santoon fabric is the smooth, silky cloth behind many Indian salwar suits and dress linings. Despite its silk-like feel, it is a man-made fabric, usually polyester or viscose. Knowing what santoon fabric is helps you judge its comfort and care.
It is light, drapes well, and takes bright colour, which makes it popular and affordable. It is not a natural fibre, so it behaves differently from cotton in the heat. That single trade-off matters most for everyday Indian wear.
What Is Santoon Fabric?
Santoon, also spelled shantoon, is a soft, lightweight fabric with a subtle sheen. It is made from synthetic polyester or semi-synthetic viscose, not from a natural fibre. The name borrows from Shantung silk, but modern santoon imitates that look at a much lower cost.
It feels smooth and silky, drapes fluidly, and resists wrinkles. Most santoon is used as a lining or as the bottom fabric for salwar suits. It is valued for being cheap, easy to dye, and simple to sew.
How Santoon Fabric Is Made
Santoon starts as man-made filament yarn, spun from polyester or viscose. The yarn is woven in a simple plain weave to give a smooth, even surface. It is then dyed or printed, since synthetic fibres take bright colour easily.
Santoon traces its name to Shantung, a silk woven in China's Shandong province. That original cloth was a plain-weave silk with a slightly textured surface. Over time, the name shifted to the affordable polyester and viscose version sold across India today.
Key Properties of Santoon Fabric
Santoon's appeal comes from a handful of practical properties. These explain why it fills so many linings and salwar bottoms. The main santoon fabric properties are:
- Soft and silky: a smooth surface with a gentle, silk-like sheen.
- Lightweight: it drapes fluidly and feels easy to wear.
- Wrinkle-resistant: polyester santoon holds its shape with little ironing.
- Less breathable: unlike natural cotton fabrics, it traps heat in humidity.
Application and Uses
Santoon stands out for giving a silk-like look at a fraction of the price. It drapes and shines like a fine fabric, yet costs far less. That balance of looks, low cost, and easy care is why designers reach for it in bulk.
Santoon shows up across Indian ethnic wear, mostly behind the scenes. Its smooth finish makes it a reliable base and bottom fabric. Common santoon fabric uses include:
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- Linings: inside salwar suits, lehengas, sarees, and jackets.
- Salwar and churidar bottoms: the soft, draping lower half of a suit.
- Dresses and kurtis: light, printed everyday pieces.
- Embroidery base: a smooth ground for heavy threadwork.
Santoon vs Modal Fabric: Key Differences
Santoon and modal are both man-made, but they differ in feel and comfort:
|
Feature |
Santoon |
Modal |
|
Fibre |
Polyester or viscose |
Semi-synthetic from beech pulp |
|
Breathability |
Lower, warmer in heat |
Higher, cooler and softer |
|
Feel |
Silky, slight sheen |
Very soft, matte |
|
Cost |
Cheaper |
Pricier |
|
Best for |
Linings, salwar bottoms |
Comfort wear, tops |
Types of Shantoon Fabric
Santoon comes in a few varieties for different needs. They differ by fibre, finish, and stretch. The main types are:
- Plain santoon: a smooth, solid version for linings and simple garments.
- Printed santoon: carries prints for kurtis and dresses.
- Stretchable santoon: blended for a closer, flexible fit.
- Viscose santoon: a semi-synthetic version that breathes a little better.
GSM / Weight Guidance for Shantoon Fabric
Santoon is a light fabric, and its weight is measured in GSM. Most santoon sits in a low range suited to linings and soft bottoms. Use this as a rough guide:
|
Weight |
GSM range |
Best for |
|
Very light |
60 to 80 GSM |
Linings, sheer bottoms |
|
Light |
80 to 100 GSM |
Salwar bottoms, kurtis |
|
Heavier |
100 GSM and up |
Dresses, embroidery base |
How To Source Shantoon Fabric: Step-by-Step Guide for Buyers
Buying a santoon in bulk is simple once you know what to check. A clear brief avoids costly surprises later. Follow these steps:
- Fix the use first, since lining, bottoms, and dresses need different weights.
- Confirm the composition, whether it is polyester, viscose, or a blend.
- Set the GSM and the width to match your garment.
- Order a sample to check the feel, sheen, and colour.
- Agree the dyeing or printing and the minimum order quantity.
Care Instructions for Shantoon Fabric
Santoon is easy to care for, which adds to its appeal. A gentle routine keeps its sheen and its shape. Follow these simple steps:
- Hand wash or use a gentle machine cycle in cool water.
- Use a mild detergent and avoid harsh wringing.
- Dry in the shade, since direct sun can dull the colour.
- Iron on low heat, especially for viscose santoon.